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Gamers Rate Us 'Excellent'
As the centrepiece of any gamer's gear setup, your keyboard takes a physical beating on the daily. So you really can't have something sub par. Get your head in the game and get a load of our carefully-crafted helpful info below 😉
Linear switches operate in a straight up and down motion and don't provide any feedback or clicking when actuated. The rapid acuation makes them a very good choice for gaming.
View linear switch keyboards
Tactile switches offer a noticeable bump and a slight audible click when actuated which very useful when gaming as well as typing as it acts as a subtle indication that the keypress has registered.
View tactile switch keyboards
Similar to tactile switches, Clicky switches give feedback on each keypress but with a significantly louder noise. The feedback can be extremely satisfying but it can also be picked up by your microphone.
View clicky switch keyboards
The traditional, most recognised form of a keyboard. This layout has around 104 keys in total and offers everything a keyboard has to offer: arrow keys, function keys, number pad.
View full size layout keyboards
A keyboard that doesn't have a number pad. These keyboards have around 88 keys and are narrower and can be more ergonomic. Often abbreviated to TKL.
View TKL layout keyboards
Smaller than the TenKeyLess layout but manages to keep similar functionality. The width of the keyboard is reduced by moving the keys closer together.
View 75% layout keyboards
On top of dropping the number pad, the 65% layout also loses the top row of function keys. This arrangement has around 68 keys.
View 65% layout keyboards
All keys located to the right-hand side of the Enter key are dropped, along with the top function row keys. This arrangement is stripped down to around 61 keys.
View 60% layout keyboards
The smallest layout available, the 40% not only removes all the keys to the right of the Enter key, it's also missing the row of function and number keys.
View 40% layout keyboards
There are notable differences between a UK and US layout keyboard. Aside from different placement on a number of keys, the UK layout includes an Enter key that spans two rows as well as the addition of the '£' and '€' key.
QWERTY refers to the layout of the keyboard with regards to the arrangement of letters. It was originally conceived for the typewriter and is still in use today.
The keyboard literally comes split (in two halves), with the aim to improve ergonomics, reducing strain with better posture.
Refers to the bottom row of keys on the keyboard. Some manufacturers break away from the standard key width, which is important to keep in mind when purchasing alternative keycaps.
Key Switches are located betneath the keycaps and are the mechanism that registers the keypress. They come with a variety of different characteristics, such as response, noise and travel times.
The switch style defines the feel of the keyboard through its key presses. Mechanical keyboards have 3 types of switches; Linear, Tactile and Clicky.
A switch that uses infrared light to trigger keypresses. They have a quick reaction time and greated reliability.
Cherry MX are one of the most well-known and most used brands in th world when it comes to key switches.
One of the main competitors to Cherry MX, with high quality standards and many comparable choices of colours.
TTC have been around since 1998 as a company but have only recently started to venture into the mechanical keyboards scene. They are seen as a cheaper alternative to Cherry MX.
The force required to register a key press. Put simply, it's how hard you have to press the key for it to register.
The key travel distance where the key press is recognised by the keyboard.
Pushing the key all the way down.
How many clicks the switch has before it packs up and calls it a day. Luckily, some switches can last for 50 million clicks 😎
Polybutylene terephthalate. One of the hardest, most durable materials for keycaps, typically used in more expensive keyboards. PBT keycaps feel more textured and last longer than ABS.
View PBT keycaps
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. The cheaper and more common plastic used for keycaps. ABS caps feel smooth but the surface can start to develop a shine over time.
View ABS keycaps
Made from rubber with a textured finish to increase friction and improve grip.
View rubber keycaps
A keyboard that contains lights underneath the keys. The backlight illuminates the letters and symbols on the keys making them easier to see in darker conditions (late night gaming).
View backlit keyboards
Designed to allow more backlighting to shine through, by making the sides of the keycap transparent.
A custom keycap, crafted by hand. Often in forms on game charactors, giving your keyboard a unique look.
Basically, the shape of the keycap, whether its rounded, flat, sloped or any another.
The printing/etching of the font on the keycap.
The method used to create the legend on the keycap. Two layers are moulded together, with the bottom layer containing the legend pertruding through the top layer.
Small rubber rings placed on the stems of the keycaps which change the feel of each keypress.
Keys which allow you to program common, repetitive actions in games to one simple key press.
Keys designed for media playback. The media keys are sometimes their own dedicated keys or accessed via the F keys by holding the FN key.
This feature prevents additional keys registering if the key rollover limit has been exceeded.
Usually described as N-Key Rollover (NKRO) meaning it can register multiple key presses at once. The N can be replaced with a number to represent a certain limit of simultaneous key presses.
Small on/off switches that change the operating mode of the keyboard. For example, some DIP switches allow a secondary profile for marco keys or the placement of the Fn key.
The keyboard has USB ports for other devices to be plugged into. Often requires more than one USB port in order to pass the USB through to the PC.
A spring-like cable enabling them to stretch further if needed or coil up to save valuable desk real estate.
A rest for your wrist! Provides support for your wrist, thus enabling you to game longer!
View wrist rests
A small device that helps you pull off keycaps without damaging them. Often included with keyboards or keycap sets.
We’re a team of passionate gamers and we're building an enthusiast hardware community that's growing every single day. We're attracting top gaming brands from around the world and bringing fresh new gaming gear to the UK, with a mission to make it accessible to everyone nationwide.
Building something special and disruptive takes time, so we're hyped to have such an awesome and supportive community along with us for the ride!
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All our products are responsibly sourced & shipped within the UK.
*Please Note: Orders with Express Delivery must be made before 4pm to have your gear delivered to you the next working day - Monday to Friday. Orders are not processed on weekends or bank holidays.
Last orders of the week must be made before 4pm on Thursday to receive your gear on Friday.
Orders made after 4pm on Friday will be processed on Monday, and delivered to your door on Tuesday.
There are many factors that come into play when sizing your mouse, such as shape and grip style, but we've focused on the size of your hand comparitive to the mouse itself.
Length: Measure your hand from the base of your palm to the top of your middle finger.
Width: Measure from the knuckle of your thumb to the edge of your palm.
*These sizes should only be used as a guide, but we would love to hear your feedback on your own personal experience. All mouse sizes shown here at EG are based on this guide.
When you're looking to switch out your skates, you’ll need to choose replacements that fit your specific model of mouse due to each mouse having a different layout on its base where the skates are installed. The exception being brands who use the same mouse chassis for multiple models, but that will be mentioned on the skates product description.
Once you have your replacement mouse skates in hand, it's now time to remove your old ones from the base of the mouse. There are a few different methods to do this, but we’ll cover the main, most reliable method (in our opinion):
Method: Hairdryer & Spudger (removal tool)
This method involves using the hairdryer to heat up the glue underneath the mouse feet. Once the glue has been heated long enough, use a spudger (a flat plastic tool with a sharp end) or a knife to scrape underneath the feet to peel them off — be careful if using a knife! Be careful when using the hairdryer too, as you want to avoid overheating the mouse, which can cause damage to your mouse (plastic melting or warping) and also cause injury to yourself, so proceed with caution.You can use the spudger or knife on its own without using the hairdryer, especially if you're unsure of how long to heat the feet up by. This may leave traces of glue on the bottom of the mouse however, which will need to be removed before attaching the new mouse feet.
Installing your new skates
Once you have removed all the old skates from the base your mouse, give the surface a clean by using rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl). This will remove any excess adhesive that may still be present. Leave the mouse to dry, and then it's time to apply the new ones.Almost all aftermarket mouse skates will be a simple case of peeling and sticking onto the mouse, ensuring the feet are applied evenly to prevent any air bubbles from appearing.
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Please note that the product images used are for illustrative purposes only and may differ slightly from the actual product.
We recommend getting in touch with us if you'd like to confirm the exact specification before ordering.
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